RETRO ERA The 1920's and 30's frenetic pace, glamour, economic plunges, and fears of war were followed by World War II. Again, women filled roles that would normally be "men's jobs". Going to work in factories and munitions plants, they made trousers acceptable as women's wear. In a time of rationing, privations, and uncertainty, the movies provided a glimpse into a world of fantasy and glamour. Actresses continued to be style icons along with society women like the Duchess of Windsor, who was renowned for her collection of bold, unusual jewelry. Once the war ended, rapid changes in the world continued. Europe was struggling to rebuild, the U.S. was fighting in Korea, former war allies became bitter enemies and the arms race began between the U.S. and U.S.S.R. It was the beginning of "Baby Boom" in the U.S as G.I.'s returned home and women were sent back to their "proper place" in the home as wives and mothers. With jewelry design, the Retro era overlaps Art Deco and has some similar characteristics. But where Deco pieces are angular and sleek, Retro examples use flowing designs and bold sizes to make their statement. The needs of the war effort affected the availability of platinum, gold, and some silver. Shortages and embargoes affected the supply of pearls and gemstones so there was an increased use of semi-precious and synthetic stones in new jewelry. The 1940's and 50's brought a surge of interest in costume jewelry. The war had shut many European designers' doors giving U.S. makers an opening to increase their market and become the major influence and supplier. The popularity of costume pieces has never waned and continues to this day. Bakelite, invented at the turn of the century, had its heyday in the 1920's through 1940's. Both Bakelite and Lucite are types of plastic suitable for jewelry. Once molded or cast, pieces can be top-carved, under-carved, painted, or set with rhinestones. (Mass produced rhinestones had begun to replace the use of paste, which had been hand-cut and was more expensive to produce.) Values are determined by rarity and condition. The war had restricted many areas of travel, but there was easy access to Mexico from the U.S. A resurgence in popularity resulted for Mexican jewelry with makers re-interpreting traditional Mexican motifs. Important makers include: Taxco Spratling Aguilar Los Castillos Retro designs are usually oversized, bold pieces - meant to make a dramatic statement. Charm bracelets became popular and the Duchess of Windsor wore one on her wedding day. (Hers dangled gem-set crosses, each one given to her by the Duke to commemorate significant events in their courtship.) To show support for the war effort, designers made brooches in the form of flags, eagles, and military insignia. In a departure from Deco style, earrings hugged the earlobe, secured by screw backs or clips. Common Elements in Retro Jewelry Multi-colored Gold (pink, green, yellow) 3-D or Sculptural Designs Curving, Flowing Designs (bows, scrolls, ribbons) Large Cut Semi-Precious & Synthetic Stones Pieces of Gold, unadorned with Stones Oversized Scale Charms & Charm Bracelets Illusion Settings (to make small stones look larger) Patriotic Motifs Earrings that sit on the earlobe Fine Jewelry Makers of the Era Carier Van Cleef & Arpels Harry Winston Major Costume Jewelers Trifari Boucher Haskell Napier Coro Dior Many of the costume jewelers had been established earlier but the gained a new level of popularity in the Retro era. Jewelry photos courtesy of The Lush Life Georgian Art Deco Early Victorian Animals & Insects Mid-Victorian Cameo Late Victorian Enamel Edwardian Mourning & Hair Jewelry Art Nouveau Revival Arts & Crafts ---I'd welcome your comments, suggestions, and any knowledge you'd care to share, as well. Is there a subject you'd like to have added to these pages? Please feel free to email me at: jthomas@jantiques.com