EDWARDIAN ERA Lasting about a decade, the Edwardian era (named after England's King Edward VII) was a mix of styles and tastes. Though the era was a short one, jewelry pieces can easily be found. New technology allowing faster manufacture of items reduced costs and made jewelry available to more people than ever before. If you look at the era dates above, you'll see that, although beginning in the late Victorian Era, the styles of Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts continued through the reign of Edward. Fine jewelry of the Edwardian era used a lot of Diamonds, white Gold, and Platinum. Although Platinum had been available earlier, it had been very difficult to work with so the new technology made it more practical for jewelry. Designs were made with delicacy to blend with the current tastes for fabrics of lace and silk. The lightness of design was also made possible through the use of Millegrain and Invisible settings, as well as by new gem stone cutting techniques. Millegrain settings use metal to secure a stone with ridges of tiny beads or grains surrounding it. Platinum and gold were made into openwork designs with Knife edges, a technique that used the edge of the metal. Pieces made using these techniques were lightweight with unobtrusive settings for the stones. Although they were beyond the reach of all but the wealthiest, Pearls were extremely important jewels in the Edwardian era. Queen Alexandra, wife of England's Kind Edward VII, wore 7 huge rows of pearls (each 24 - 30" long) to her coronation. Added to these were the rows of diamond chokers and multiple brooches that covered her dress. Faux pearls were made for less wealthy customers. (Cultured pearls, pearls that are "farmed" weren't yet available.) Tiny seed Pearls were often used to cover brooches and pendants or as accents in larger pieces. You'll also find irregularly shaped pearls (sometimes called "Shark's Tooth") as bottom drops on lavalieres. Necklaces of all kinds were very popular and can be found by the collector. Negligee styles are necklaces, either with two pendants that hung at unequal lengths from the chain or a necklace without a clasp worn draped around the neck with the ends looped. The Sautoir is a very long necklace made of beads that fall below the waist; these often have tassels on the ends. This type of necklace would be popular through the Art Deco period. A Lavaliere necklace is one that has a pendant suspended from a thin chain. These are the most common types of necklaces found from this era. Brooches were very much in favor and worn in multiples. Along with the insect and animal brooches mentioned previously, new motifs became popular reflecting the physical activities that women were now pursuing. Brooches with sporting motifs of fox heads, horseshoes, golf clubs, and riding crops can be found from this time period. Bracelets were worn both singly and in multiples. The "knife edge" technique, previously mentioned, was used to make lightweight pieces, often set with stones. Spring bracelets, unlike other antique bracelets that are often too small for the modern wearer, are designed to open wide and fit snugly onto the wrist. Bangles and chain bracelets set with gems are other examples of Edwardian jewelry that can still be found. Accessories, important for the era and still collectible today, are hatpins, watch fobs, and stickpins. Hatpins, of course, were necessary for the Edwardian lady to secure her large hats. Watch fobs can be found in abundance and today can be worn as pendants or charms. Stickpins, with all their variety are worthy of collecting as miniature works of art. All these items were made in base metals with faux gems as well as precious metals with real gems. Again, as with the late Victorian era, costume jewelry in all different styles of the era, are easily found. Look for these to be made using beads, gold and silver plate, glass, brass, and other materials. Motifs Commonly Found in Edwardian Jewelry: Insects Stars Crescent Moons Serpents Jewelry Styles Popular in the Edwardian Era: Dog Collar Necklaces Bar Brooches Bead & Pearl Sautoirs Spring Bracelets Bangle Bracelets Chain Bracelets Jewelry set with all white or clear stones Stones and Metals Commonly Found in Edwardian jewelry: Amethysts Emeralds Opals Pearls Peridots Platinum Rubies Sapphires White Gold (after 1910) Silver England's King Edward VII died in 1910 and his son, George V, succeeded to the throne. Styles didn't really change until the beginning of World War I in 1914, but with the onset of hostilities most aspects of life changed quickly. There were new ideas of reform in the workplace and in society, as a whole. Women had to fill job vacancies left by men now fighting and there was a renewed push for women's rights. Organizations were formed to demand higher standards of living for all classes of people. Massive casualties and the horrors of the war set the stage for the "live-for-today" attitudes of the 1920's. Styles, taboos, and social norms would never return to those of the Edwardian era. Georgian Retro Early Victorian Animal & Insects Mid-Victorian Cameos Late Victorian Enamel Art Nouveau Mourning & Hair Jewelry Arts & Crafts Revival Jewelry Art Deco Era ---I'd welcome your comments, suggestions, and any knowledge you'd care to share, as well. Is there a subject you'd like to have added to these pages? Please feel free to email me at: jthomas@jantiques.com