LATE VICTORIAN OR AESTHETIC PERIOD 1880 - 1901 Before her death in 1901, Queen Victoria was coaxed out of seclusion to celebrate her Jubilees. The Golden and Diamond Jubilees were nationwide celebrations of her long reign and there is still an abundance of jewelry to be found made to commemorate the events. Several eras of jewelry design occurred in overlapping time frames (sort of sub-divisions of "Victorian Jewelry") and continued into the Edwardian Era. Art Nouveau jewelry (roughly 1880-1914) and Arts & Crafts (1890-1914) are such unique styles that they're discussed individually, on separate pages. Art Nouveau & Arts & Crafts In the late 1800's, Darwin's controversial theories on evolution, as well as new botanical discoveries taking place, created popular interest in the natural world. Of course, personal adornment reflected these new interests with jewelry created in forms of insects and animals. Some are typical jewelry items, for example - gem set butterflies, gold houseflies, enameled beetles, silver monkeys, etc. But there are also more unusual forms of ornaments. Animal jewelry that may seem ghoulish to modern tastes are those that incorporate body parts of animals or birds. Concepts of conservation or ecology weren't considerations and Victorians had no qualms about exploiting natural resources or hunting animals (sometimes to extinction). You can still find this type of jewelry, a brooch made from a grouse foot (a game bird) or sometimes, whole hummingbird heads taxidermied and set into gold or silver. These are so unusual that they, too, are discussed on a separate page to show a range of examples. These may not be to everyone's taste but they're worth knowing about. Both types of jewelry are discussed at Animal & Insect Jewelry Small brooches called Lace pins are easily found today. These were worn, several pieces at a time, by ladies to secure pieces of lace to their ensemble. Sweet little things, they're often accented with seed pearls, natural or synthetic stones and come in all qualities of gold and goldfill. Because so many pieces were made, they come in all price ranges and make a great collection. Wide bangle Bracelets were eventually replaced with narrow, rigid bangles toward the end of the era, and never went out of favor. Another example is the mesh bracelet, usually in Gold or Gold Fill accented with a fringed end. These don't normally need a clasp. They slide open and are kept stationary by cork on the underside of the decorative top. One of many Victorian designs still found in modern bracelets is the curb link bracelet. These incorporate a lock clasp (sometimes heart-shaped with it's own tiny key) that dangles from the wrist chain. Often given as love tokens they symbolize the "capture of my heart". Dangling earrings were popular and shapes could be very unusual to modern eyes - insects, human faces, and fossils are examples. Around the closing decades of the 1800's, the fashion changed and smaller earrings, including simple studs, became the preferred style. Around 1870, round lockets of dried flowers and butterflies became popular. Materials could be Silver, Gold, Gold-fill, Silver Plate, and Glass. Sizes from this era are usually larger than those made earlier. Necklace Designs in Vogue Included: Rivieres Fringes Dog Collars Sautoirs Lavaliers Chokers Pendants It was considered fashionable to wear several necklaces at once and the choker types were worn high up on the neck. Lavalieres from 1890 - 1910 were very popular. Luckily for the modern collector, examples are plentiful in gilded silver, gold plate, platinum, silver, and various colors of gold. Definitions can be found for some of these on the Dictionary page Chatelaines, worn throughout the Georgian and Victorian eras, endured until the 1920's and were worn hooked over the waistband of a dress or apron. Originally, they were made as ornaments to hold a watch on a chain, sometimes with decorative fobs. Later, additional items were added: seals, scissors, etuis (sewing cases), vinaigrettes, thimbles cases, buttonhooks, knives, etc.- all items in constant use. You can find chatelaines made in gold, silver, pinchbeck, cut-steel, and ivory to name only a few of the materials used. Designs run the gamut from relatively plain to extremely decorative. Now considered very collectible, prices can be very high. Hair combs were essential accessories for any lady until the 1920's trend for bobbed hair made them obsolete. Beautiful examples can be found made of tortoiseshell, silver, gold and gold plate, some set with pearls, (real or faux) and with semi-precious or precious stones. While the Victorian era has a reputation for puritanical morality, there are examples of jewelry that were considered "naughty" for the time. One example, bracelets designed to look like corsets, complete with the laces and buttons found on the real undergarment are rare but wonderful. Very spicy stuff for the end of the 1800's. When Queen Victoria died, she had reigned for sixty-four years - the longest reign in British history. The world was a completely different place from that which existed when she was first crowned. England's power was concentrated in the populace rather than the monarch. The secret ballot had been introduced. Britain had fought the Boer and Crimean Wars. The U.S. and France had both suffered internal wars. Industrialization and new methods of manufacturing had taken over. New methods of sanitation and medical care were being discovered and put into practice. The rights of women, children, the poor and the mentally ill became important issues. It must have seemed staggering to people who looked back on their lives and saw the enormous amount of change in their world. Chatelaine photo courtesy of Red Robin Antiques Georgian Retro Early Victorian Animal & Insects Mid-Victorian Cameos Edwardian Enamel Art Nouveau Mourning & Hair Jewelry Arts & Crafts Revival Jewelry Art Deco Era ---I'd welcome your comments, suggestions, and any knowledge you'd care to share, as well. Is there a subject you'd like to have added to these pages? Please feel free to email me at: jthomas@jantiques.com