Gem Cuts in Antique Jewelry (Diagrams courtesy of "Diamond-Engagement-Rings-Guide.Com") Girdle - Edge of a gemstone Crown - Portion of the gemstone above the girdle Pavilion - Portion of the gemstone below the girdle Table - The large flat surface at the top of the crown of a gemstone The first Diamonds used as gemstones were most likely small stones discovered by individuals walking along riverbeds in ancient India. In antiquity, Diamonds were considered magic stones because of their hardness and sparkling beauty. The specific parts of a gemstone are listed above. But to explain further, the top-most flat facet is the "Table". The top of the stone is called the "Crown", the bottom is the "Pavilion". The middle section between these is the "Girdle". This is the section that is usually attached to the jewelry mountings. The bottom point of the pavilion is the "Culet". There are a few quick ways to distinguish a modern cut stone from older cuts: Modern gemstones generally have taller crowns than older cuts. My research tells me that a modern crown height is generally 15% of a stone's diameter. Old cuts have crown height around 30%. Modern cuts of gemstones usually have a perfectly formed bottom point. Looking, at old cuts, however, you'll see a point that is less sharp, flatter - this is called an "open culet". Because of this style of cut, if you look through a clear stone from the top, you can see a dark spot at the bottom of the stone. Because of the difference in crown heights between old and new gemstones, modern ones will have more weight. MINE CUT STONES Diamonds weren't cut and polished until the 1200's and one of the first types of cut found in old jewelry is called "Mine Cut". These are crudely cut with a flat top. Facets are usually irregularly shaped - rectangular or square. Books describe this cut as having a "high crown, deep pavilion, small table, and large culet - which can sometimes be seen through the stone's top". ROSE CUT STONES A slightly more complex cut, the "Rose Cut" was created during the 1600's, in Holland. There are similarities to Mine Cuts, in that they are also fairly flat, usually circular, but with more facets and a domed top. The key to recognizing a Rose Cut stone is this pointed top. Facets can be as few as 3 or as many as 24, but they all meet in a point at the center. This cut is said to have a resemblance to a rose bloom, hence the name. Early examples, made with closed backs were often set with thin pieces of foil to help reflect light through the stone. A clear stone could even be made to appear as a variety of colors, changed by the color of the foil underneath. Rose cuts were popular in jewelry into the early 1900's but they were still occasionally used in pieces made up until the 1920's. It's a cut mostly used for Diamonds and Garnets, but other gemstones can occasionally be found with this cut. Be aware that new reproduction jewelry is being made that incorporates Rose Cut stones. A new type of diamond saw, developed in the late 1800's made it possible to cut more complex facets on gemstones. This innovation made the cut called "Tolkowsky" possible. Created in 1917 and named after its creator, it's the forerunner of modern brilliant cuts with their multiple facets. CUSHION CUT STONES Cushion Cuts were first developed in the 1700's in Brazil, a Diamond production center at the time. This style of cut has 58 facets, 33 on the crown, and 25 on the pavilion. CABOCHON STONES Cabochon cuts have been used all through history. This is a round-cut stone with no facets and a rounded top. Cabochon cuts were particularly popular in Pre-Raphaelite, Arts & Crafts, and Art Deco jewelry. EMERALD CUT STONES Emerald Cut stones are usually rectangular shapes. The top is flat and if any facets have been cut, they'll be found around the outer edge. This was a particularly popular cut in the Art Deco era and continues in popularity today. The diagram and photo are of a view looking down at the stone. This particular emerald cut is fairly simple, there are variations that are more complex - with more side facets or with a more square shape. EUROPEAN CUT STONES European Cuts are round stones with facets of equal size. Buying and Caring for Antique and Vintage Jewelry Buying, Repairs Cleaning Married Pieces, Repairs & Reproductions Tests to Determine Material ---I'd welcome your comments, suggestions, and any knowledge you'd care to share, as well. Is there a subject you'd like to have added to these pages? Please feel free to email me at: jthomas@jantiques.com