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Buying Antique Jewelry How do you decide on a piece of antique or vintage jewelry? Are you building a collection from a specific era? Do you buy jewelry with a certain stone or metal? Do you collect enamels -or rings -or butterflies? Or do you just buy whatever you fall in love with? Have you ever bought something and then later wondered why? Do you notice flaws you didn't see before? Do you suspect it's newer or older than you thought? Hopefully, this page might help you remember questions you need to ask yourself BEFORE buying a piece. The Search Price guides are helpful in determining the value of a piece, but don't take them too literally. Check to see the dates when prices were determined and where the prices came from - are they an auction price or are they a dealer's price, for example? Auction sales can sometimes be affected by emotional or competitive bidding that drives the prices up. Read all the material you can find on vintage and antique jewelry. Some useful books are out of print but can still be found in used bookstores and on the Internet. Go to all the shows and see and handle as much jewelry as you can to study it and learn. I list a small sampling of informative books at Books Dating Brooches: Oldest - "C"-clasp sometimes in combo with stickpin on chain as safety. Beginning late 1800's - trombone clasp Beginning around 1910 - lever-type safety clasp 1920's to present - roller ball safety clasp (Those 1800 - early 1900's sometimes have watch-hooks in addition to the regular clasp.) Earring closures: (Be aware that an antique earring may have been changed to newer style closings.) Oldest - simple hooked wire (shepherd's hook) 1800's to present - lever backs Late 1800's to present - threaded posts Beginning of 1900 - screw backs 1940 to present - clips Look for these marks to denote the specific karat of Gold or type of Silver (Includes karat types commonly found in Europe) Remember, many old pieces will have no marks.: 22 Kt. = .916 18 Kt.=.750 = eagle head = woman's head = number 72 in box 15 Kt. = .625 14 Kt. = .585 = number 56 in box 12 Kt. = .500 9 Kt. = .375 Sterling = "925" or Lion, head facing right Coin Silver = "900" Gold-fill and Gold-Plate - Are interchangeable terms. Gold-fill usually refers to the method of plating used on the oldest pieces. It's created using a process applying layers of gold over base metal. Older pieces have very thick layers. Learn to use a loupe (magnification of 10 is easiest to use). This lets you see workmanship more clearly, the quality of stones, and helps look for damage or repairs Look at piece in the best available light or carry a small flash light with you. Make sure any stones are secure in their settings. Check to see if any stones are missing and be aware that some cuts of stones can be hard to replace. Make sure the stones are "right" for the time period of the piece At auctions, be sure to go to the Preview before deciding to bid on a piece. Check on the auction fees - these will be added to your final bid price. Be aware of auction reserves (the lowest prices that will be accepted on an item). In bargaining with dealers, remember to be courteous and polite. Being confrontational or belittling their merchandise doesn't help to get a good deal. Don't try to chat if they have other customers, come back at a quieter time. When buying from internet web sites, most will list their "terms and conditions". If you don't find information you need there, email asking any questions you may have and get their policy in regard to returns, refunds, mailing charges, etc., BEFORE you buy. Before Buying a piece of jewelry, ask yourself: Is it wearable or displayable just as it is? Does it need repairs, what will they cost? Does the style and look of the piece seem correct for the era it's supposed to be from? Is it well made? Do you see any obvious repairs? Have stones been replaced? Are any changes well done? Gold-fill and gold plate finishes often show signs of wear (the gold finish showing wear through to metal underneath). How much wear are you willing to live with? Look for tell-tale signs of stones that are doublets or triplets as opposed to a single stone. These are worth less than a single stone and are used to enhance color or use a cheaper sliver of precious stone over less expensive stone. Do the clasps close properly? Are the seams tight? Are the hinges in good shape? Are the gemstones identifiable, secure in their settings, and right for the age of the piece? Do you really love it? Collect jewelry you'll enjoy wearing -if a piece you love is too fragile to wear, display it in a shadow box. Some day, you can pass your collection along - a wonderful treasure for future generations! MAKING REPAIRS Older jewelry is most valuable when kept in its original state. Arbitrary changes will also destroy a remnant of the past, so that it's no longer "right" in appearance. Changes will also affect future value should you ever decide to sell a piece. Make sure the jeweler you use to for repairs understands and appreciates the care needed for older jewelry. Find one who'll appreciate their fragile nature and won't overclean to remove the patina. Make sure repairs aren't too "modern" for the era of a piece. Don't overlook the possibilities to use pieces of jewelry that have been "orphaned" or already have had changes or slight damage. Single earrings, for example, can be made into pendants without guilt. APPRAISALS Having items appraised will give you specific information about a jewelry piece. This is information that's very helpful if you ever need to file an insurance claim for lost or stolen items. Find an experienced and reputable appraiser who's familiar with what you want appraised. Your local jeweler can do an inexpensive quick appraisal; particularly if you only need to know quality and size of stones and metal content. If you need a fuller analysis (including value added by quality, age and rarity) you'll need to find someone who specializes in antique jewelry. Prices for this type of appraisal varies. Appraisers are listed in phone books but you can also ask at your local shows and antique shops. When talking with an appraiser ask what kind of appraisals they offer, most people prefer to get one for full "replacement costs". This type gives a value so that, if you wanted to replace an item, all difficulties of finding a comparable one will be taken into account. If you want to sell items, it's preferable that you find one person to appraise and a different one who'll negotiate buying. That's the best way to be sure you're getting an accurate appraisal and not what someone wants to pay to buy. SELLING If you ever decide to sell an item or put it "on consignment" with an dealer, keep in mind that the they need to make a profit. Every dealer needs to cover costs of doing business; web site hosting, repairs, photography, displays, transportation, insurance, appraisals, etc. (not to mention lots of time). Research comparable items to give you an idea of value. Have an idea of the price you need to get before beginning negotiations with dealers. PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT Make photographic records, including descriptions and sales receipts for your jewelry and put in a safe place. Valuable pieces can be stored in a safety deposit box or a home safe. (However, Pearls and Opals need to "breathe" and shouldn't be stored there.) Check with your Homeowner's Insurance policy about listing your jewelry for replacement value. Buying and Caring for Antique and Vintage Jewelry Cleaning Gemcuts Married Pieces, Repairs & Reproductions Tests to Determine Material ---I'd welcome your comments, suggestions, and any knowledge you'd care to share, as well. Is there a subject you'd like to have added to these pages? Please feel free to email me at: jthomas@jantiques.com