HOW TO BUY Learn to use a 10X loupe. The magnification lets you see workmanship more clearly, the quality of stones, and helps look for damage or repairs Look at piece in the best available light or carry a small pen light with you. Make sure any stones are secure in their settings. Check to see if any stones are missing and be aware that some cuts of stones can be hard to replace. Make sure the stones are "right" for the time period of the piece At auctions, be sure to go to the Preview before deciding to bid on a piece. Check on the auction fees - these will be added to your final bid price. Be aware of auction reserves (the lowest prices that will be accepted on an item). In bargaining with dealers, remember to be courteous and polite. Being confrontational or belittling their merchandise doesn't help to get a good deal. Don't try to chat if they have a lot of other customers, come back at a quieter time. When buying from internet web sites, most will list their "terms and conditions". If you don't find information you need there, email asking any questions you may have and get their policy in regard to returns, refunds, mailing charges, etc., BEFORE you buy. Price guides are helpful in determining the value of a piece, but don't take them too literally. Check to see the dates when prices were determined and where the prices came from - are they an auction price or are they a dealer's price, for example? Auction sales can sometimes be affected by emotional or competitive bidding that drives the prices up. Read all the material you can find on vintage and antique jewelry. Some useful books are out of print but can still be found in used bookstores and on the Internet. Go to all the shows and see and handle as much jewelry as you can to study it and learn. TESTING Testing pieces for gold, silver, and platinum can be done with a testing stone and acids. Solutions for 10, 14, 18, & 24 Kt. Gold, as well as Platinum and Sterling are available. To test : VERY LIGHTLY rub the item to make a mark on the stone (be careful not to damage the finish). Apply an acid solution to the mark. A mark that fades quickly shows that the piece is not the same as the quality of the acid used. If you prefer, the acid can be applied directly to the piece of jewelry. The acid will discolor the piece, so be sure to test in a spot that can be easily cleaned. CAUTION! THE ACIDS ARE DANGEROUS IF NOT HANDLED PROPERLY! Diamond testers are available through gem suppliers, the least expensive cost around $100.00. These can sometimes be fooled by various elements, such as dirt on the stones or if you hold it improperly. REPAIRS Older jewelry is most valuable when kept in its original state. Check pieces to be sure you're aware of any alterations. Since many materials can't withstand the heat needed to apply gold, cold solder is used to make repairs. Check to see if there's any on pieces you're interested in. Make sure the jeweler you use to for repairs understands and appreciates the care needed for older jewelry. Shop for one who understands their fragility and won't over clean or make a repair too "modern" for the time period of the piece. It's best not to arbitrarily change a piece of antique or vintage jewelry. It will also destroy a remnant of the past, so that it's no longer "right" in appearance. Future value will be affected and it will limit buyers, should you ever decide to sell a piece. Don't overlook the possibilities of pieces of jewelry that have been "orphaned" or already have had changes or slight damage. Single earrings, for example, can be made into pendants without feeling guilt. SELLING If you ever decide to sell an item or put it "on consignment" with an dealer, keep in mind that the they need to make a profit. Every dealer needs to cover costs of doing business; web site hosting, repairs, photography, displays, transportation, insurance, appraisals, etc. (not to mention lots of time). WHAT TO BUY Collect jewelry you like and will enjoy wearing. If a piece you love is too fragile to wear, display it in a shadow box. Some people like specialized collections, one era, a specific stone, or a certain type - like mourning jewelry or bows. Make photographic records, including descriptions and sales receipts for your jewelry and put in a safe place. Valuable pieces can be stored in a safety deposit box or a home safe. (However, Pearls and Opals need to "breathe" and shouldn't be stored there.) Check with your Homeowner's Insurance policy about listing your jewelry for replacement value. Before buying a piece of jewelry, ask yourself: Can I wear it just as it is? Does it need repairs, and will they be affordable? Does the style and look of the piece seem correct for the era it's supposed to be from? Is it well made? Are any repairs evident? Are they well done? Do the clasps close properly? Are the seams tight? Are the hinges in good shape? Are the gemstones identifiable, secure in their settings, and right for the age of the piece? Do you really love it? Then wear it, love it, enjoy it and some day - pass it along, a wonderful treasure to future generations!